6.1 Tintern

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Tintern was founded in 1131 by Walter fitz Richard (d. 1138), the Anglo-Norman lord of Chepstow, and a member of the powerful family of Clare. Walter of Clare was also related by marriage to Bishop William of Winchester, who had introduced the first colony of White Monks to Waverley in 1128. Tintern was the first Cistercian house to be founded in Wales and the second in the British Isles after Waverley.

Tintern abbey, situated deep in the Wye valley, was colonised by monks from L'Aumone (Loir-et-Cher) in the diocese of Blois in France. L'Aumone was in turn a daughter house of Cîteaux, and Tintern was therefore linked as a granddaughter to the Burgundian mother house. The community grew quickly and by 1139, had sufficient numbers to send out a colony to Kingswood in Gloucestershire. During its early years the house was led by Abbot Henry, a man of great spirituality. Henry, who presided over the community from 1148-1157, had spent his youth as a robber, but later repented and took the Cistercian habit. Abbot Henry is known to have visited both the Pope and St. Bernard. In 1189 William Marshal, earl of Pembroke, became lord of Chepstow and patron of Tintern. Earl William was also lord of Leinster in south-east Ireland and, during a storm at sea, he promised God that he would establish a new monastery on these lands if he was saved from shipwreck. Thus Tintern sent out her second and final colony to establish the abbey of Tintern Parva (Little Tintern) on William's lands in Ireland (1201- 1203).

The abbey buildings appear to have been intended for a fairly large community: some twenty monks and perhaps fifty lay-brothers. The monastery was endowed with lands and possessions on both sides of the river Wye. By the late thirteenth century the monks at Tintern were farming well over 3000 acres of arable land on the Welsh side of the Wye and kept some 3000 sheep on their pasture lands.

In 1245 the lordship of Chepstow passed to the Bigod family. Roger Bigod III, Earl of Norfolk (1270-1306), took a keen interest in the abbey. In 1301-2 he granted the abbey his Norfolk manor of Acle. This proved to be a valuable asset to Tintern and by the sixteenth century was accounting for a quarter of the abbey's income. Roger Bigod was remembered primarily as the builder of the abbey church. The project, which had commenced in 1269, was finally concluded under the patronage of Roger, c. 1301. At the time of the Dissolution the monks were still distributing alms to the poor five times a year for the repose of Roger's soul.

The abbey was at its most prosperous at the turn of the fourteenth century but afterwards made no significant additions to its property.  In 1535 the net annual income of the abbey was valued at £192, which made Tintern the wealthiest abbey in Wales at this time. Even so, the abbey came under the first Act of Suppression (1536) which dissolved all houses under an annual income of £200. The house was surrendered in September 1536 and the site was granted to Henry Somerset, earl of Worcester (d. 1549), who was the current patron of the house. The earl stripped the buildings of their roofs for lead.  At some point during the following century a number of the monastic buildings may have been converted into dwelling houses.

During the second half of the eighteenth century the wooded slopes of the Wye became a popular site for 'Romantic' tourists, with the ruins at Tintern acknowledged as 'the jewel and highlight of the tour'. At this time the site was owned by the Duke of Beaufort. He was passionate about the heritage left to him and set about preserving the abbey as the perfect gothic ruin. Reverend William Gilpin's guidebook 'Observations on the River Wye' (1782) became an immediate bestseller and travellers flocked to the area particularly to experience Tintern, which was supposed to be the most beautiful scene on the tour. In 1792 J. M. W. Turner made pencil sketches of Tintern which later became a selection of his most magnificent water colours. The abbey was also the inspiration behind one of the greatest romantic poems of the English language: William Wordsworth's 'Lines Composed a few miles above Tintern Abbey, 13 July 1798'.   This poem is still being mined by academics and their students throughout the word as an icon of the Romantic movement

In 1901 the site was recognised as a monument of national importance and the property was sold to the Crown. A restoration programme was set in motion which was completed c. 1928. 

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